Where are we today? The Salvation Islands, Devil's Island -- French Guiana

 What a fascinating place!  Monkeys, huge rodents, peacocks, tropical flowers and jungle, and macabre history -- what more can you ask for.  I wasn't expecting it to be as compelling a place to visit as it is.

Although our itinerary says "Devil's Island" (Ile du Diable), we technically explored Île Royale as the Ile du Diable is off limits nowadays.  Royale is one of the three Îles de Salut (Salvation Islands). They were called Salvation because early missionaries sought shelter there when there were plagues on the mainland of French Guiana (Guyane).

The prisoners who were sent here when the Îles de Salut were part of a notorious prison colony didn't think this place had anything to do with salvation or health.  French people sentenced to be sent here called Devil's Island the Dry Guillotine; in other words, a certain -- if bloodless -- death sentence. In the Islands' worst years, 75% to 90% of all prisoners perished.

Journalist who brought attention to the horrors of the island prison colonies.

(Backing up a minute: 1) Did you know that French Guiana is actually a department of France?  The currency is the Euro.  It is also the outermost region within the European Union, though it is, of course, in South America.  2) Did you know that France's longest border is between Brazil and France (because of Guiana
)?3). Did you know that France operates some of its space program here?)

Back in the day, France thought it should compete with Spain and Portugal in colonizing South America.  It decided later to be happy with Guiana.  It also decided that the islands off that region's coast would make a great place to house the worst of France's criminals, as well as a few who were politically  inconvenient.  The jungle, rocks, fierce seas, and tropical heat made the prisons nearly inescapable.

Devil's Island is famous today for what is known as the Dreyfus Affair, when Captain Alfred Dreyfus was falsely imprisoned here for treason.  His case exposed antisemitism in the French army, as well as other forms of corruption, and it had complications that shook a good portion of Europe at the turn of the 20th century.

People my age remember Devil's Island for the book and movie "Papillon" which was the memoir of a prisoner who claimed to have escaped to the mainland after serving nine years in the islands. He was imprisoned in the 1930's, but his story came out in the 1970's.  Today, there are books and articles discussing how much of the story was truly his and how much he lifted from other prisoners on these three islands.  In fact, France claims that there is no record showing that he was actually on Devil's Island, though he was imprisoned in the area. Even if you count his story as historical fiction, it is a gripping one.

We didn't take the challenging and rocky trail or the hundreds of steps, but we walked up the gradually inclining road to the summit. Halfway there, we stopped by the abandoned children's cemetery, with the Victorian looking tombstones.  I wonder about the mothers who must have had to leave their children's graves behind if they returned to France or if they went to settle on the mainland. 

At the top, we found what remains of a prison, a convent, a chapel, an insane asylum, and a governor's house.  There is also a gift shop and restaurant in the old citadel there.  We also saw the old

quarters for married guards and the quarters for single ones.  The few workers who were about spoke French, which I enjoyed. 

Dave and I dutifully dressed for sun and mosquito protection, with long tropic wear shirts and hiking pants.  After all, Devil's Island is the place that insists all visitors must be vaccinated for yellow fever, and there are other mosquito borne diseases around.  The wildlife was amazing. We saw lots of delightful monkeys, which run free here, as well as peacocks.  We just missed seeing the huge local rodents, some as big as dogs, though others on the trip saw them.  We saw not one bug.  I managed to sweat inside my hot clothes so much that I got muscle cramps and other signs of mild heat exhaustion. Seeing the island was worth it!  

This was just one of the many adorable fellows we came across.  One our way back down the mountain, we heard a lot of monkey chatter and the screeching of some kind of bird we couldn't identify.  A throng of monkeys had gathered in trees near the path.  Someone had fed one of the monkeys, and that news was apparently going through the monkey gossip train.  

Next stop -- the Amazon.  After our 10 days along the river, we will head north toward the Panama Canal.  Visiting countries along the way, we will transit to the Pacific and to Hawaii, Guam, Saipan, and Japan.  In Japan, we begin the Asian leg of the journey.

Miss you all!